Postcards from Istanbul

One of the benefits of changing hemispheres is the prospect of visiting new far away places.

While planted in California, if you had asked me if i had intentions of visiting Turkey (the country, NOT the bird) i would have wondered where you came up with such a ridiculous question.  

Eastern Hemisphere + 1 Generous Husband + 9 Ladies = Girls Trip!

ISTANBUL

4 days is hardly enough time to soak up the richness of the city with 9 women.  
After all Istanbul has been around for A LONG time and has A LOT to offer!

Here is where i will confess i am a big time wannabe history buff.  i LOVE history but have the worst memory when it comes to specific dates, which i am assuming is a pretty important component of history.  What i lack in number sense i make up for in my enthusiasm and fascination for the ancient.  The allure of old buildings rich in history charms me with its stories of the past.
  
So bear with me as i gush over a bit of History.
(All dates and numbers i double checked online and can take no credit for.)  

Topaki Palace

Where Sultans ruled the Ottoman empire for about 400 years.  Imagine the stories lingering in the 400 rooms of the Sultan's harem!  

  

Istanbul is positioned on the Bosphorus which is a strait that connects the Black sea to the sea of Marmara and serves as a boundary between Europe and Asia.  This means within a few minutes you can cross over from one continent to another.  As if that weren't enough, this place has been host to 2 major empires and religions; Roman and Ottoman/Christianity and Islam which makes for some captivating sights.

Hagia Sophia

Currently a museum, the Hagia Sophia was originally built as a Byzantine church but was converted into a Mosque during the takeover of the Ottoman Empire.  It is as far as i know the only place where upon entering you see a mosaic of Mary and Baby Jesus flanked by the Muslim words "Allah" (right) and "Mohammed" (left).  Aside from the history, the architecture and mosaics of this building the conversation between Muslim and Christian friends was rich. 

While reading about the architectural history of this building i was at first seriously disappointed to discover this. 

"Unfortunately nothing remains of the original Hagia Sophia, which was built on this site in the fourth century by Constantine the Great." 

It's always so disillusioning to think i'm seeing a very old fascinating work of architectural genius only to discover it's merely been rebuilt over an originally old structure.  i continue reading to find out how old the "new" Hagia Sophia really is. 

"Hagia Sophia was rebuilt in her present form between 532 and 537 under the personal supervision of Emperor Justinian I."

And just like that i am instantly impressed again.  

Clearly from the picture you can see how her marble floors are sagging and her arches are beginning to slump under the weight of the history she has been shouldering.

And lest you think Istanbul is only for history buffs...

The Shopping is A..MA..ZING!

The Grand Bazaar is the oldest covered market in the world.  Tucked away within 61 covered streets and 3,000 shops there are treasures galore waiting to be discovered.  The hilarity of it all is watching 9 women shop while attempting to calculate the price in 4 currencies.  Turkey uses 2 currencies; the Turkish Lira and the Euro while some of us still think in Dubai Dirhams and US Dollars.

"How much is 300 Lira?"

"About 129 Euro."

"But in Dollar?!"

"$170"

"Ok, but i need to know in Dirhams... 610...right?"

"Yeah, pay in Euros, its the best deal ;-)"

There are Kilim rugs, handmade ceramic, tapestries, jewelry and leather so soft you'll want to sleep in it.  It would take days to see everything just within the Bazaar. 

Istanbul also has some amazing upscale boutiques and shops filled with high end fashion.  As beautiful as they are, it's the bustling streets filled with people, the endless free samples of Turkish Delight, the aromatic spices and unfamiliar sights that capture my attention.

(Beware: one picture below may cause you to squirm but i just couldn't leave it out!)

Public Drinking Fountain

  

Need a smoke?

Sheep parts anyone?

Somewhere just past the sheep parts but before the delicious Turkish lunch, we got swept into... for lack of a better phrase... a "crowd of people."  

The part of me that thrives on experiencing a city for what it is apart from the polished touristy sections thought it was exciting to see Turkish life up close and personal.  i lifted my camera above my head and snapped a shot of what it feels like to be a salmon swimming upstream in Istanbul.

 About 30 seconds later when it became even more crowded (yes, it is possible) i realized it was NOT exciting to be packed in in such a way that you literally CANNOT move. at. all. Thankfully we did manage to get out all 6 of us totally unscathed. 

i have no idea but the phrase Turkish Smurf-a-Claus comes to mind.

Turkish Bath or Hamam 

  My kiddos giggled when i mentioned the hamam part of our trip.  "Um Mom, you know that means bathroom in Arabic right?!"  When i explained what sort of bathroom it actually referred to they were sure we were crazy.  

A hamam is a bath house that served 2 purposes; keeping oneself clean and socializing with friends.  A Hamam is split into 2 sections one for men the other for women but be prepared to leave all modesty behind if you want the traditional experience. 
We opted to try out this Hamam.  
 After you are doused by your own personal attendant with water that is the perfect temperature, you lie under a beautiful dome and relax on a hot marble slab.  Steam time is followed by a complete scrub down which can only be described as giant sandpaper scraping off every bit of your dead skin.  There is more dousing, scrubbing, piles of bubbles, washing and more steam.  When all is said and done you emerge from the bathhouse with muscles like jello and skin that is glowing and velvety soft.  Even the most modest of ladies who was at first hesitant to take part is now ready to hamam it up at least once a month.  If you want the full monty on hamams click here cause this is all the pictures and info getting from me.   

Istanbul doesn't disappoint when it comes to food and nightlife.

What's a trip to Istanbul without some STRONG and THICK Turkish coffee?  

This is why it felt like the cube of sugar was never quite totally dissolved. 

Delicious street food 

In Greece it's called a gyro, in the Middle East it's called Shwarma; meat roasted on a turning spit and carved off thinly and placed in a pita with garlic sauce and other condiments.  We have them in Dubai all the time and they are delightful!  These shwarma guys perfected thinly sliced meat by using an electric shwarma shaver which none of us had ever seen before.

Istanbul has some incredible restaurants and nightlife with unbelievable views of the Bosphorus, Europe and Asia.    

For all of the beauty, culture and adventure Istanbul offered up to us the best part of a trip like this is traveling with such a diverse and interesting group of ladies.  i am sure i have said this at least a thousand times but the BEST part of our Dubai/travel experience is the people.  This trip began as a 5 minute conversation after school drop off.  It grew from 2 women going to 9 within a matter of weeks.  Some women had friends in Istanbul so we were able to meet up with additional Turkish friends.  Our dinner conversations wandered the spectrum of the day's events to 4th grade playground gossip, life in Dubai, lives prior to Dubai, families and future moves on the horizon.  Sometimes conversations would naturally slip into native languages of Arabic or Farsi and back into English again which somehow always managed to enrich and add to the conversation rather than exclude.  Cultural stereotypes were affectionately teased because let's be honest sometimes our differences are just plain funny.  

Getting to know and love women with backgrounds from Egypt, Canada, Lebanon, Japan, Iran and the States is a gift in itself, but getting to do it in Istanbul is priceless!

   

  

  

  

My Hollywood Pitch

When i am home this summer i am thinking of making a stopover in Tinseltown to pitch my idea for a new TV show.  Although i would NEVER want to star in it, i wouldn't mind the royalties if it becomes a hit.  It would be an oddly concocted series consisting of reality TV and Seinfeld like comedy.

One Part 
~Travel/Education Series~ 

It's only on travel shows where you can learn completely random facts you would have otherwise never thought of.

How exactly does one ride the world's fastest roller coaster whilst keeping the hijab (head covering for women) in place?

While waiting in line at Ferrari World for the Formula Rossa Ride (which for the record is AMAZING!  See the details HERE) i was trying to figure out why ski masks were available upon entering.  i understood the eye goggles but ski masks!?  After eyeing the clothes rack for several minutes i realized they were not ski masks but hijab coverings to be fitted snugly over head scarves so the women wearing hijabs would never at any time need to be uncovered.  Even when traveling at 1.7 Gs.

While eating at the newest Cheesecake Factory i feel like i just might be back in the States except for the human snow balls that keep bouncing off our window.

During school field trips kids learn the importance of the "Ships of the Desert" or more commonly known as the camel.  

Random fact... Camels can swim.

The camels dwelling in the Arabian desert are the dromedary, or one-humped camel.  The Bedouins would use them for travel,  their milk, hide, meat (eating baby camels only) and locating water.  Apparently, once a camel knows where water is it will always be able to locate it again.  Camels have 3 stomachs and the reason their spit is so nasty is because it comes from the first stomach.  

The Arabian horse is highly revered in the Arab culture and has one less rib than other breeds, is known for its endurance and has a distinctly different style of running.

One of the most fascinating things to me about the United Arab Emirates is that this country is only 41 years old.  Within that short span it jettisoned itself into the future at about the the same speed as the ride mentioned above.  Transforming itself from Bedouins living in tents with little to no electricity and traveling to the local missionary hospitals on camels to a glittering city on the map filled with the biggest, fastest and tallest.    

One Part

~Punk'd~

(or Candid Camera for those of us in the older generation)

At least once a week i glance around suspiciously to see if i am being taped for practical joke.  i wait for someone to jump out of the bushes sand snickering, "No no, it's all just a joke!  You've been Punk'd!"

Parking on sidewalks is common place.  So one day at school i pulled into a spot next to 2 other cars ON the sidewalk.  (For the record, i use that word loosely as nobody can actually walk on them.)  i see a school security guard run up to me and said, "Ma'am, you can't park there."
"Okaaayyy...  Where should i park then?"
"Right over there."
"You mean you want me to park my car in front of the NO Parking sign?"
"Yes, ma'am.  It is better over there."
Wide eyed blank stare, "Ok..."
(Another side note; i adore those security guards! They greet us everyday with a smile and help keep our school safe and i know they are only doing what is asked of them.)

For the past 3 months i have navigated through the sea of cars and looked for a spot among the 20 other cars all parked in front of the NO Parking sign. 

Yesterday i found this on my windshield.

Then there is the regular everyday parking.  Just when i am SO happy to have scored a decent parking spot, i go in, run my errand and come out only to find a vacant car parked right behind me.  i kid you not, happened this morning and while my parents were here.  My mom was shocked, "Oh! What do you do?!" she asked in her American, this is astonishing voice.
"Well, you scan the area for the driver.  If there appears to be no one around you get in your car and lay on the horn.  Watch."
We both got in the car, buckled up and blared the horn for about 15 seconds.  Out of nowhere appears a driver making some sort of apologetic hand motion.  He gets in his car and inches it forward just enough for me to pull out and Viola we are able to leave.   
  

One Part 
~Housewives of Dubai~

Here the viewing audience may be a bit disappointed if they are expecting cat fights and all out war.  The ladies are helpful, sweet, welcoming and seemed to have just tumbled straight out of the latest Beautiful and Exotic magazine.  They also know how to fill up a calendar.  Throw a bunch of adventurous women together who can't work in a foreign country and they will find ways to fill their days.  Girls trips, lunches, Arabic lessons, golf lessons, shopping, paddle boarding, cooking classes, volunteering at school and ships docked port side.  You name it, they will do it.  Add to that every one's various backgrounds and accents which makes for hilarious and interesting conversations around the table.  Imagine an American, a Japanese, a German, a Lebanese, a Canadian, an Egyptian and an Australian all discussing cultural differences at lunch.  i know right?...it sounds like the beginning of a bad joke but here it is just a daily event and one of my favorite parts of this city! 


One Part 
~Seinfeld~

At least once a week Chris and i discuss our daily situations and how we could easily create Arab Seinfeld episodes out of them.  You should hear us, we are hilarious!  

In order to purchase a bottle of wine here (other than in a restaurant IN a hotel) you have to apply for and hold an actual liquor license, which must be renewed every year and is granted only to those who can verify employment.  The license is typically under the man's name.  This means grocery store do not stock any alcohol.  NONE.  

In order to make a purchase, one must find a discreetly hidden store and present your license.  This means if i decide last minute to make my favorite recipe that calls for a wine reduction sauce and the hubs, holding our license is out of the country, i can't just run to the store to pick up a bottle.  Seems i would be out of luck...  
Don't feel sorry for me though, i can have it delivered to my door with just a click or phone call.  

i won't get into the details but it happens.



i don't know who i am anymore.

It has become a sort of novel game now.  Whenever i am asked to give my name at a place of business, i clearly say TAMI and when they repeat it back to me instead of correcting them 10 times and writing it down on a piece of paper i just smile and nod, "Yes" and wait to discover my new moniker when they finally do call me.  One place i have visited 5 times and the receptionist knows me as Kimmy.  When i call there i always refer to myself as Kimmy or my mobile number... whichever they find first.

Me: This is Kimmy, you have me down for an appointment on the 1st at 12:00.  i need to change it.
Them: Kimmy is your name??
Me: Um, yes.  You have me down on the 1st of April for an appointment at 12:00
Them: Kimmy?...Hmm, can't find it. (i'm waiting, waiting...Finally i hear an exasperated sigh...)  What is your mobile number?
Me: 0501112222
Them: Oh yes, Kimmy!! You have an appointment on the 1st @ 12:00."



Then there is this...

The poor bag boy who is following a lady home on the unpaved desert road to take her groceries home.  i'm guessing he wasn't expecting this long of a walk when she motioned for him to carry her groceries out.  

This is the stuff TV is made of.
  
But as Chris has reminded me, nobody outside of Dubai would really appreciate the humor in the oddities.  True, Hollywood would probably advertise my show as Sci-Fi.  Quite ironic actually, considering i enjoy our adventure here but never watch Sci-Fi because it's just too far out there for my taste.



      

"Oh The Places You'll Go..."

About a year and a half ago i was curled up on my parent's couch carefully breaking them into the idea that it was quite likely we would be packing up their grandchildren and moving our family to the Middle East.  i remember being pleasantly encouraged at how well they took the news especially considering they themselves had never left North America and how the words Middle East can have a tendency to evoke all sorts of fearful thoughts in many people.  They were supportive yet i knew they were anxious about us being a half a world away in a foreign place.  

Which is why their recent trip to visit us was such a special treat!

These previously non-passport holders boarded a plane and flew 16 hours to spend almost 2 weeks with us.  Not only did they log some serious miles on those legs as they toured the area, they conquered some fears, 

sampled new foods, 

(Ok, they could have but didn't)

met new people and effortlessly overcame jet-lag. (At least on this end.) 

There is so much to see.... if only you come have a visit with me!

Colorful Souks (rhymes with soup) selling their wares

Spices galore fill the air with fragrant aroma

Piles of saffron available around every corner

Creek side boats anchored as their goods and laborers spill over onto the dock

Handmade Silk Persian Rugs just in from Iran

If your up for the ultimate shopping challenge spend 6 hours at a World Market where you can shop Turkey, Yemen, Thailand, Iran, Pakistan, India, Africa and bargain for treasures from 38 other countries.

   

 If shopping is not your thing then take in the sights

Some are dizzying at 124 floors up

You'll never be lacking for a photographic moment

And not to be outdone by her photogenic side, Dubai always has her wacky side to offer up.

We can start our day with a super food Camel Latte

While at coffee i will need to check my texts

i'll show you the important people around town.  

(If not the people at least their cars)  The lower number the license plate, the more money you paid for it.  We are talking millions.  Single digits plates are usually reserved for royalty.  This one is from Saudi and is pretty much the lowest number you can purchase.  Sorta like walking around wearing a gold plated "I'm #1" shirt.

The safety factor here may surprise you.  (One of these days i will actually take a picture of the wide open designer bags sitting out in the open completely unattended with the wallet inside practically begging you to snatch it out.)  The chances of getting robbed while visiting are very slim so people don't closely watch their belongings.

  

This is why it makes perfect sense for the local cashier to carry the money in a clear plastic tupperware. 

         

Mosques are EVERYWHERE, malls, parks, schools, they can even pop up on golf courses.

We can spend the afternoon shopping for fancy handbags while the kids entertain themselves in the store's specially designed kid lounge.

When we feel the need for a little physical activity we can always mix it up and hit the slopes...

in the mall where the chairlifts are accessed through turn~ styles.

We can end the afternoon with a small chocolate delicacy sprinkled with real gold dust. 

i was super proud of my parents as they were up for all sorts of new challenges and experiences while they were here.  They soaked it up every minute of it with the poise, fearlessness and experience of well seasoned travelers.  

Dubai can be filled with the unbelievable which makes it so easy to entertain visitors.  However the best part of our visit with my parents was having the chance to share LIFE here with our family from there.  With all the latest social media it has been fairly easy to fill the gap of miles between our lives lived on separate continents, but nothing can take the place of spending time together other in person!  Sometimes when we are back in the States, Dubai can seem like a far off fairytale that may not even really exist.  So although taking Mom and Dad to all the various "sights" was fun and exciting the most meaningful stuff was made up of experiencing our "normal."  The stuff in between the sights was what filled our hearts with warmth and encouragement.  Family from home living with us, visiting the children's school, grocery shopping, navigating through the day, doing the daily and seeing all the absurd parts of Dubai somehow verifies that this isn't just a crazy haze, it really is our life.  

And life is always more fun when it is shared.